Typically, it's the new year when we turn our thoughts to the Zinfandel from California's most famed wine region. But now is a season for hearty red wines, so why not get a holiday jump?The 2010 vintage was a curious one for Zinfandel - relatively cool, yet with heat spikes that particularly affected this grape.
In Napa, at least, judicious farming seems to have won out at least some of the time. Napa Zinfandels offer a dust-edged nuance that shows the variety's classiest side, and the best of our tasting absolutely echoed those characteristics.
I did wonder if the roster of Napa Zinfandels is shrinking. Our tasting was smaller than in past years, even factoring in that we didn't see the latest from a number of perennial favorites in our lineup this time - Storybook, Green & Red and Robert Biale, for instance. Perhaps the cool vintage required extra aging.
But at the same time, I wondered if Napa, where land has become shockingly expensive, might increasingly be laying its chips with more rarefied wine. Napa Zinfandel has been struggling against neighboring Sonoma on the price curve for some time now. At some point, would smart money turn to Cabernet?
I hope not. Not just because Napa needs diversity in the field, but because its Zins are particular treasures. Here's hoping we continue to see an abundance in the future.
2010 Hendry Block 28 Napa Valley Zinfandel ($35, 15.9% alcohol): George Hendry and his family have been loyal to this grape through the years, working near the base of Mount Veeder.
Their Blocks 7 & 22 bottle will be a pleasure in another year, but right now the Block 28, grown on thin Boomer soils, shows a density and berryish tang, matched to heady blue-plum flavors, almost like slivovitz brandy, and a dry-bark edge.
2010 Turley Wine Cellars Rattlesnake Ridge Howell Mountain Zinfandel ($40, 16.1%): Larry Turley has a fond spot for this site high up in the northeastern corner of Howell Mountain, and this is Turley doing what it does best.
The chewy, granitic tannins of Howell Mountain are matched by cinnamon and violet, with amazingly concentrated, dark blackberry fruit. One of those examples of power revealing itself without being obvious.
2010 Mike & Molly Hendry R.W. Moore Vineyard Napa Valley Zinfandel ($38, 14.8%): From a new generation of Hendrys: Mike, George's nephew; and his wife, Molly, the niece of Bill Moore, whose 105-year-old Coombsville vineyard (you might know it as Earthquake) is a Napa icon.
This second vintage from the couple shows powerful tannins, a minerally edge and dry-thyme accents to lift perfumed plum and black raspberry. A sign of Coombsville's beauty with this grape.
2010 Vermeil Wines Luvisi 1908 Block Calistoga Zinfandel ($38, 15.8%): As in NFL coach Dick Vermeil, with his winemaker Paul Smith, tapping some historic vineyards.
In this case, it's the Luvisi family's 1908 planting (Vermeil also uses Frediani), and a strong case for the virtue of old vines. Through mucho oak char and jam, the sheer quality of the fruit bursts through - brambly berry, watermelon skin and a dusty mineral grip that shows the value of keeping old roots in Calistoga's loamy soils.
2010 Ravenswood Napa Valley Zinfandel ($16, 14.5%): Credit due to Ravenswood for delivering a solid Napa wine at a price rarely seen anymore, and for deftly handling the odd vintage. A relatively simple bottle, but with great tangy berry fruit and a tight, dusty edge that will be welcome to old-school fans feeling adrift in the Zin seas.
