In the US, avocado on toast has become a symbol of middle-class success. In China, young Chinese are discovering homegrown symbols of their own.
At first, it was pricey imported cherries. Those who are financially successful enough to afford them were said to have achieved “cherry freedom.” But now it’s “Xiangchun freedom” – having enough in the bank to be able to afford the coveted leaf of the mahogany tree.
The what-now?
Xiangchun are the leaves of the Chinese mahogany tree. They may look like red spinach, but they actually taste a little more like onion. They’re traditionally used in northern Chinese cooking. Typical preparations involve xiangchun being stir-fried with eggs, mixed with tofu, or used as dumpling filling.
According to a report from the state-owned China News Service, Xiangchun are going for as much as 80 yuan ($12) per pound in Beijing supermarkets. A quick search on JD fresh, – China’s AmazonFresh – has one pound of the vegetable going for up to 200 yuan ($30).
Why are they so expensive? For one, this seasonal delicacy is harvested only a few times every year. It’s also used in Chinese medicine, for pain relief and to encourage blood clotting. But also, the fact that the vegetable has become something of a status symbol.
However, behind the cute phrase, “Xiangchun freedom” is a reflection of a decline in real spending power in China, according to Yao Zhiyong, an economist with the School of Management at Fudan University. “Many items have become more expensive, but people’s salaries haven’t gone up accordingly.”
