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Current Position:Home » News » General News » Topic

Australia's top chefs lining up for capers

Zoom in font  Zoom out font Published: 2018-11-12  Views: 9
Core Tip: Barry Porter and Helen Jones planted their first caper plants 12 years ago, on their property in Barmera, South Australia and started selling their produce as Kolophon Capers in 2010.
Barry Porter and Helen Jones planted their first caper plants 12 years ago, on their property in Barmera, South Australia and started selling their produce as Kolophon Capers in 2010.
 
Their plantation is now five times the size of when they first started, with 200 plants in the ground, yet they said they could double their production and still would not meet demand.
 
"When we started, we planned to do a couple of farmers markets and perhaps have a couple of retailers and if we were really lucky a chef or two," Mr Porter said.
 
"Now 90 percent of our production all goes out to top chefs around Australia and I actually have a waiting list of chefs." The couple settled on growing capers as the hardy desert plant suits the dry and hot Riverland climate.
 
"They use very little water, can handle our extremely hot summers and because they are deciduous most of the time they can handle our frosty winters," Mr Porter said.
 
Despite some frost damage earlier in this season, they are expecting to harvest a good crop this year.
 
"We will harvest about 100 kilograms of capers plus 35,000–40,000 stems of caper leaves and, if I am lucky this year, we might harvest some caper berries," Mr Porter said.  
 
Mr Porter said the capers and leaves were very popular in Australia's culinary world, whereas in Greece and Turkey they were only used in salads.
 
"I developed this pickling technique where they turn crisp, green and fruity," Mr Porter said.
 
"A lot of the top chefs in Australia now use them on a skewer between lamb — like George Calombaris, Heston Blumenthal uses them with octopus, Matt Moran in Sydney loves them in a steak tartare instead of the capers and some of our local chefs in the Barossa use them with the South Australian kingfish."
 
Executive Chef at St Hugo Restaurant in the Barossa, Mark McNamara, said they used the caper leaves with a salad, their kingfish dish and meat but also on platters as a simple pickle.
 
"They are a real punch of flavour, so we tend to use them sparingly, to give emphasis to a dish," Mr McNamara said. 
 
"It's hard to pinpoint the flavour, apart from just to say that it's absolutely unique — it's a purity of flavour that comes with these ones."
 
The chef said that in his experience, the pickling of capers can often mask the flavour of the fruit.
 
"I don't think I actually knew what a caper tasted like until I tried these once, they actually tasted like something," Mr McNamara said.
"A lot of times capers are marked by vinegar, or the salt is that heavy that you can't taste anything else, but there is a fragrance that comes of these capers that just gives it lightness and elegance.
 
"It's one of the best quality products out there on the market. You can buy cheap imported capers, but they are not a patch on what's being produced, there is a care that goes into it and there is a purity of flavour — and I think chefs will always look for the best quality."
 
Mr Porter said they wanted to produce a premium product but it was still a surprise to them how much demand there was for their produce.
 
 
 
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